The Camera Collection

This is the camera I’m actually using. Review will follow soon.

Sat, 16 Mar 2013 00:18:54 +0100

This is the camera I’m actually using. Review will follow soon.

The long awaited Hapo 66-E review is finally posted. This is my favourite photo of the...

Tue, 19 Feb 2013 10:35:09 +0100

The long awaited Hapo 66-E review is finally posted. This is my favourite photo of the camera:

Taken with an Olympus E-410, with the 3.5/35mm Zuiko Macro lens. I like that versatile little prime. A true joy to use.

And check out the Zenit 3m review as well.

Tue, 29 Jan 2013 10:00:17 +0100

And check out the Zenit 3m review as well.

I’ve just posted the Certo Dollina II review here. Enjoy.

Sun, 27 Jan 2013 19:09:04 +0100

I’ve just posted the Certo Dollina II review here. Enjoy.

For you guys who still follow this blog I would like you to know that the Kiwi Project is almost...

Sat, 12 Jan 2013 14:53:00 +0100

For you guys who still follow this blog I would like you to know that the Kiwi Project is almost done.

The project site is up and running and some initial materials are posted. So check out our new project here:

kiwiproject.tumblr.com

Take care

Okay guys, haven’t been here lately because this blog is still not maintained but I’m...

Mon, 02 Jul 2012 23:29:34 +0200

Okay guys, haven’t been here lately because this blog is still not maintained but I’m posting you some teasers now. You can visit my active blog for the details: http://thecameracollection.blogspot.com/

Hope you’ll like it.

Moving out

Tue, 01 Mar 2011 18:51:00 +0100

The size of my camera collection got too large to fit a microblog comfortably so I had to move it from Tumblr to a full-featured blog site. The new addres is:

http://thecameracollection.blogspot.com/

This site will not be maintained anymore so check out the new one.

(My other microblog, The Daily Photographer will remain here.)

Have fun with old cameras.

Cheers

Hello. Awesome site. :) I just wanted to ask you something about my Yashica D, the shutter speed knob won't turn. :( Do you know anything that can help me fix it? Thank you.

Wed, 16 Feb 2011 01:37:38 +0100

Hi!

Thanks. As for the knob, I’d find a good camera repair shop nearby and take the camera there for a CLA (cleaning, lubrication and adjustment). It’s generally not expensive and makes your old camera work as a new one. Worht the price.

I have a Altix camera, version I, that was produced from 1938. What is the price for it on the market?

Thorulf Arwidson

thorulf.arwidson@gmail.com

Tue, 15 Feb 2011 21:35:21 +0100

Dear Thorulf,

go to te eBay and use the advanced search to find the completed listings. You can see the actual prices there. Be as specific for the camera type as you can. Good luck!

Hy

Can you give me some info about an Eho camera? I have one and this the only I have about it, there is no other inscription on it.

Thank you
Dana
ursulescudn@gmail.com

Tue, 15 Feb 2011 21:33:49 +0100

Hi! Is it the box camera you mean? Here is the first search result of google:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nesster/5299335459/

Check it out.

Hi, I have a Yashica Nicca YF camera No. 470001 that is fitted inside a leather case with a shoulder strap, a timer - also inside it's own leather case, a folding might (in a plastic case) along with a couple of lenses with a lense cover as well as a brush attached to a blue bulb that you squeeze air out of for cleaning. All of these items are in a hard Diamond cowhide 'purse' style bag. I'd like to sell all of these mint condition items to a collector that would appreciate the entire set. Would you have any suggestions please? Thank you,Kara Rush Southwest Florida karamrush@gmail.com

Tue, 15 Feb 2011 21:32:03 +0100

Dear Kara, I suggest you to use eBay. Lots of collectors buy there. Check out the completed listings (advanced search) for the actual prices of similar cameras. Good luck!

My daughter and I have just found a vintage box camera...The only markings I can find are on the lens which are Meyer and Trioplan with additional german notations...there is also a number. The camera was in an old square Kodak leather box but was not fitting like it belonged together...the camera itself has a 'handle' on one end rather than the top and the outside is a grainy leathery material...do you know where I can go to find more information about it?

Tue, 15 Feb 2011 21:29:12 +0100

Good question. Try to google it and find a picture of a similar camera. The problem is that the Meyer Trioplans were quite common lens so I cannot determine the camera type from it.

Hello, I have just read with amazement your discrition of the Werra camera. I have just inherited one and am facinated by it, and would love to use it .One question is how do you insert and remove the film ? I have pondered but cant see how its done. Home you can help.
Best Regards

Thu, 14 Oct 2010 21:26:00 +0200

Hi! Inserting and removing the film is a bit tricky. First you have to open the camera turning the central wheel at the bottom and pull the the bottom of the camera out. Then you can deal with the cartridge and the spool as usual. You can find the full process here in details: http://www.cameramanuals.org/pdf_files/werra_1-4.pdf

Ihagee Exa

Fri, 10 Sep 2010 14:18:00 +0200

Version: 4
Serial No: 504555
Manufactured: 1957
Shutter: “Guillotine-type” Exa specialty
Speeds: 1/150, 1/100, 1/50, 1/25, B
Lens: Meyer-Optik Görlitz Trioplan 1:2.9/50
Lens No:1996718
Apertures:2.9, 4, 5.6, 8. 11. 16. 22
Last CLA: unknown

This is one of the best looking things ever made. No doubt about it. Look at this picture. Something you want to possess immediately, isn’t it? The good news is that you can buy one for less than EUR 50 on ebay.

This camera is the older brother of the Exa Ia, I’m going to compare with. People often call it Exa 0 to distinguish it from the latter I and II models.

The most striking difference is the look. The Ia was a nice camera but the 0 is simply beautiful. Sparkling metal everywhere, knobs and buttons, and this nice engraving on the front plate, all in all, this camera is a dangerous seducer.

The cheap feel of the Ia is not present when you hold the Exa 0 in your hand. It feels solid and precise. And it’s so damn good looking that you tend to forgive anything anyway. Even the sound of the shutter which is the same empty can noise as of the Exa Ia. But don’t hear, look!

There is charm everywhere on this camera. You can set the shutter speed with a stick for example. Isn’t it delightful? Of course it is.

Now let’s see the handling. This camera have a Trioplan lens which is great but it doesn’t include automatic aperture stop down so you have to set focus on maximum aperture and stop down manually before the exposition. Another issue is the finder. There is no focusing aid in the prism so using it is more difficult than the finder of the Ia which is brighter, have better loupe and gives us the comfort of a Fresnel prism. So the Ia is much easier and faster to use.

But the Exa 0 is a piece of gem and it even provides us with a “sport finder”. Or at least a hole that can be called this way. It cannot be used to focus or set anything but it’s so nice that it even exists.

Maybe beauty is not everything but it is almost. That’s why we love this camera. Finally some words about the lens. I love the Trioplans since I tried one on my Altix. They render beautifully, especially compared with the Domiplans. The Domiplans are boring, the images are unsharp and the colors need lots of digital post-processing not to be dead-grey. The best you can tell is that they are reliable and even the old ones are in generally good shape. But don’t go for it. There is a quite large lens selection for the Exas. Tessars for example. But the best choice can be the Trioplan. It is a mid-priced lens and this suits well for the cheap-SLR concept of the Exa family. But it is the best on the mid-priced lens palette, standing out the same way as the Exa stands out from the other cameras of its price range.

And now some test shots in BW.

Yashica Electro 35 GSN

Thu, 09 Sep 2010 15:31:04 +0200

Serial No: H 662891
Manufactured: 1973 - 1977
Shutter: electromagnetically controlled Copal metal leaf shutter
Shutter speeds: stepless from 1/500 to ~30 s (depends on the aperture) and B
Lens: Color Yashinon DX 1:1.7 f=45mm
Aperture: 1.7, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16
Last CLA: none

I’ve got this camera and the extension lens set in their original boxes, even the protective plastic bags were on them.

Ever ready case, lens holder, straps, user’s manual, auxiliary finder, lens caps, everything. And it was virtually unused. (Ok, there was a film cartridge in the camera and an old battery but there were no other signs of use and the extension set was not even unpacked.) Am I a lucky guy? Yes, I am.

The Yashica Electro 35 GSN is an interesting aperture priority camera which needs an 5.6 V mercury battery (don’t worry, you can find good replacement batteries). The battery is needed by the CdS light sensot and the stepless, semi-electronic shutter which is basically a mechanical metal leaf shutter controlled electro-magnetically (the quietest shutter I’ve ever heard). So you can use the camera without battery but you will lose light metering and will be limited to only one shutter speed: 1/500. Not bad for daylight photography, though.

The camera itself is big and heavy like hell. The body is full metal and ready to make serious injuries if the situation requires. The extension lens kit is quite impressive but almost unusable in the practice because the coupled rangefinder needs post-calculations on focus setting if you put an extension lens on. However, the 45mm focal lenght of the default lens is very comfortable in most of the cases.

I don’t like this Yashinon lens, I have to admit. It can be my fault but I don’t like the way it renders the pictures and the colors. I’m seemingly alone with this opinion because the net is full of praises of its sharpness and everything.

An interesting solution of the light metering: it is adjusted to the film speed with a little aperture on the top left of the camera front. You can see it moving when you set the ISO value on the top. The metering is surprisingly precise, by the way.

FED-2

Thu, 12 Aug 2010 23:15:00 +0200

Great cameras have great stories behind them and this applies to the FED-2 which was named after Felix Edmundovich Dzerzhinsky alias Iron Felix. Iron Felix wasn’t a cartoon superhero but he was the founder of the fearful Bolshevik secret police called Vecheka, well-known from its brutality. It was the ancestor of the latter KGB. He got the assignment directly from Vladimir Ilyich Lenin.

F.E. Dzerzhinsky

Felix Edmundovich Dzerzhinsky wasn’t an optical engineer. He wasn’t a photographer either. But he must have been influential because they named six towns after him, and, most importantly, a labor commune in Kharkov, Ukraine. This rehabilitation commune of abandoned youths (or prison of young criminals, mostly 13-17 year old boys and girls, as the rumor says) was led by the reputed Soviet pedagogue, director Anton Semyonovich Makarenko, famous after his theory of collective discipline. Here they started to manufacture the Soviet Union’s first 35mm camera, the FED, during Stalin’s push for the industrial and economic transformation of Russia.

Young communards working in the F. E. Dzerzhinsky Commune - 1934

The FED was based on the Leica II(D) - the Russians bought the license from the German company for the camera body, the collapsible Elmar lens and the 35mm Leica film cassette. But they didn’t just copy it, they made some developments as well. Soon, the FED-2 was born. It wasn’t a simple Leica replica anymore.

Serial No: 153914
Type: B2
Manufactured: 1956 - 1958
Shutter: curtain
Speeds: 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250, 1/500 and B
Lens: FED 1:3,5 F=50mm
Apertures: 3,5 - 16 without stops
Lens No: 280375
Last CLA: 06/2010

The FED-2 got a large, Contax-like 67mm coupled rangefinder and a Contax-like film loading mechanism while keeping the ergonomic Leica design and the Leica shutter. The best from both world, one may say. The FED-2 is therefore a very comfortable and surprisingly usable camera.

I love the way you have to cock the curtain shutter: you can feel the curtain rolling to the spool. The exposition feels a bit clumsy as the curtains roll down but in fact, the shutter is quite precise. The whole process is simply lovely.

Despite the compact look, the FED-2 is heavy and solid as a rock so you can use it for self-defending purposes in case of need. The knobs rotate a bit rough, you can feel that it’s a Russian piece of machinery of the not-too-precise-but-surviving-everything kind.

The camera design is so simple that it’s almost impossible to wreck and cheap to get repaired. They made more than one million FED-2s so it’s not too difficult to find spare parts. However, parts of different cameras are not necessarily interchangeable from two reasons: firstly, there were about 30 more or less different types of it, secondly, hey were made by hand so the sizes and the location of screw holes may differ a little.

The collapsible FED lens is not the sharpest one I ever had, but it’s a big fun to use it. First, you have to pull it out of the camera body, then you have to twist it while pulling to lock it. Don’t forget to push it back a little to check you locked it properly otherwise you can get an out of focus image like this:

You can call it artistic anyway.

Now let’s see the other one.

Serial No: 2343868
Type: D6
Manufactured: 1959 - 1968
Shutter: curtain
Speeds: 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500 and B
Lens: FED I-26m 2,8/52
Apertures: 2.8 - 22 without stops
Lens No: 1581284
Last CLA: 06/2010

I ‘ve got this camera from a girl working at the Photo hall when I took a few rolls of film there for development. She was enthusiastic about digital photography and didn’t understand why I used a film camera. This FED-2 was her grandfather’s camera but she never used it and wanted it to be in good hands so she handed it over to me. I’ve got it CLA-d and promised to take care of it. He made me promise to show the first roll taken with it but I couldn’t find her at the shop anymore despite that I tried it several times.

This later type FED-2 feels to be exactly as well-balanced in the hand as the older one, with the same vulcanite exterior which gives a good grip. The main difference is that the knobs work more easily and more precisely. There is a minor change in shutter speeds which I wouldn’t call an enhancement: 25, 50 and 100 was replaced by 30, 60 and 125. The shutter itself is a newer design: it’s not as vulnerable to improper handling as the older ones were.

The pretty collapsible FED lens was replaced by a definitely better performing but less charming Industar 26 labeled as FED I-26m with a strange 52mm focal lenght. It is sharper and renders definitely better pictures than its collapsible brother.

Here are two really important warnings if you want to use a FED:

Always cock the shutter before setting the speed. Never set the speed first or you damage the shutter permanently. (Some later types are not vulnerable to this but you’d better not count on it.)
Never turn the lens to the sun. It will burn holes into the shutter curtain. Use lens cap every time.

The FED-2 is a popular camera among vintage camera users because it’s cheap, handy, good looking and has a special story behind. You will find lots of information about it. Here are some starting points:

IHAGEE EXA Ia

Sun, 30 May 2010 01:36:00 +0200

Serial No:379142
Manufactured: 1965-1977
Shutter: “guillotine-type” focal plane
Speeds: 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/175 and B
Lens: Meyer-Optik Görlitz Domiplan 2.8/50
Apertures: 2.8 - 22 in half stops
Lens No:5116628
Last CLA: unknown

The Exa Ia is a cheap and simple SLR camera system with interchangeable lens, interchangeable finder and lots of accessories (like a 3 parts macro tube for as close focusing as 2 cm). It was designed to be an affordable alternative of the more sophisticated and higher quality Exakta series.

It comes with a waist-level finder which can be replaced with a normal eye-level finder but why anybody would do that? A waist-level finder is a great fun. Firstly because you have to compose in a mirror (and it’s not as easy as you think). Secondly you will get a completely different perspective. Composing while the camera is on the ground is not a problem anymore. Same applies when you hold it up above your head. Finally, the waist-level finder is the less obtrusive solution possible. Most people will not even notice that you take photo.

Then comes that ugly clash. The Exas have a very simple shutter which is basically the mirror itself making a noise of an empty can. It’s really ugly. Simplicity means a limited choice of speeds from 1/30 to 1/175 which is surprisingly enough in most of the cases. Simplicity also means reliability: it’s free from the slowdown in cold - a typical problem of other mechanical shutters having higher speeds.

The camera itself is somehow wobbly. However, it’s wobbly in a German way. For example the cover of the waist-level finder is beveled because of an imprecise fastening. But not only on mine - it’s beveled on all Exa Ia-s exactly the same way. Engineered discrepancy.

The manufacturer was IHAGEE, a strangely named camera company founded by a Dutchman in Dresden, Germany (the name is the German pronunciation of the acronym IHG standing for Industrie- und Handelsgesellschaft).

You can find several lenses for the EXA Ia since it has a standard IHAGEE Exakta/Exa bayonet mount. Mine came with a Domiplan lens which is not a sharp one but reliable and without noticeable distortion. Here is a sample picture taken with it:

All in all, the EXA Ia is a unique camera with a really special look. It’s simple, medium quality but reliable and fun to use. You will like to play with it.

Raoul Pop, an American photographer made a short video to introduce the EXA Ia in details. A must see.

Kodak Retina IIa

Wed, 19 May 2010 23:41:00 +0200

Type 150
Serial No: 362056K
Manufactured: 1939-1941 (yes, right)
Shutter: Compur-Rapid
Shutter No: 6059689
Speeds: 1, 1/2, 1/5, 1/10, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250, 1/500 and B
Lens: Schneider-Kreuznach - Retina-Xenon f:2.8 F=5cm (uncoated)
Aperture: between 2.8 and 16 without stops
Lens No: 1589863
Last CLA: unknown

No, this is not the Retina IIa you think. That was made between 1951 and 1954. This one is a little bit older. It was designed in 1939 and manufactured until 1941 by the Nagel Camerawerk in Stuttgart, Germany under the Kodak brand name. Only 5107 pieces were produced from this type so you can call it a rarity. The two visual differences you can use to identify it are that this one has film wind knob while the later types have a lever and this one has a depth-of-field scale wheel at the bottom which is missing from the 1951-54 series.

The camera itself is small. It fits in a larger pocket when folded. It’s surprisingly heavy and robust for the small size, feels like something very serious and extremely reliable - and it is. It can provide you with a sufficient range of shutter speeds to 1/500 and an acceptable choice of apertures.

It’s a really old camera, not something from the 50’s so it’s a little bit difficult to use. You have to turn the camera to yourself to be able to set the aperture and shutter speed, for example. Accidentally modifying the settings is easy so be careful and check them before each shot. Your finger can unintentionally turn the shutter speed ring when you cock the shutter.

The rangefinder is coupled and surprisingly usable; a pink spot picture on the blueish image of the viewfinder. In fact it’s far better than the rangefinder of a Super Dollina II or an early Zorki or Fed.

You can find a depth-of-field scale wheel typically Nagel on the bottom of the camera. It can be used to pre-calculate the right distance setting when one decides to go with zone focusing instead of using the rangefinder. Zone focusing is like anything else with this camera: possible but not easy.

The Kodak Retina IIa is a beautiful camera. No doubt about it. The Type 150 is even more. It’s usable but it’s so old that you have to make some compromises despite the good range of f stops and shutter speeds. (I’m willing to make compromises and hardly waiting to put a black & white film into it and go out somewhere.)

There is no coating on the lenses so it’s better to be careful with the light sources. On top of that, the lens is meant to render black and white images. Using a color film it can produce really strange colors. The result is completely unpredictable, sometimes too red, sometimes too blue, sometimes too orange, sometimes dead grey and sometimes ok.

Here are some test shots with more or less realistic colors (a bit yellowish, but just a bit):

Do you want some extra attention for yourself? Get a Retina IIa, put a roll of 35mm film into it and go to take some pictures. This camera is not an ordinary view, especially not in action.

I couldn’t find any manual for this exact type so I had to experiment with it for a while to get to know each other and I found two quirks:

There is an interlock which prohibits the camera to fold when the focus ring is not set to infinity. It looks like the folding unlock buttons to be jammed, but if you set the focus to infinity, everything works fine. So don’t force, set the focus to infinity before you close it.
There is a switch on the back of the camera behind the film wind knob without an obvious function. It enables the rollback of the film. It’s a unique solution of this type, other types have different mechanisms.

You can read the manuals for the I, II and later IIa types on butkus.org for the rest you need to know on how to use this great camera.

Altix IV

Sat, 15 May 2010 22:09:00 +0200

EHO-Altissa Altix IV version 2 type B to be more precise.

Serial No: 130546
Manufactured: 1952
Shutter: Vebur
Shutter speeds: 1, 1/2, 1/5, 1/10, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250
Lens: Meyer-Optik - Trioplan 1:2.9/50
Apertures: between 2.9 and 16
Lens No:1681093
Last CLA: 04/2010

I bought this camera to have something which I could take with me on my motorbike and I didn’t mind to wreck. It was cheap. It was ugly on the pictures. I didn’t care about the look just wanted something simple and functioning. I bought it for less than 15 EUR.

As for the functionality, it provides with the bare minimum: small aperture and speed range, separate film winding and shutter cocking, no metering at all, you have to use a separate light meter for the exposition settings and a good guess-o-meter for the distances. Sounds not too handy, right?

The first thing I noticed when I finally got it was how small it was. And how seriously good looking. Far better than on the pictures. It was a real surprise for me.

I took it to the International Seiberer Bergpreis oldtimer race to have an old camera with me. It was sunny so I didn’t have to use my light meter just set f/16 and 1/100. I used range focusing to forecast the distance. Winded the film, cocked the shutter and shot. Modified the distance and shot again. And again and again. I fell in love with it for the first roll.

The rings and knobs are ergonomically designed so the handling feels absolutely natural. The viewfinder is surprisingly bright and useful. The lack of metering gives you speed. You have to calculate and set everything in advance so you won’t miss the right moment of exposition. It turned to be the ideal camera for the oldtimer race. I could shoot 2 or more pictures of a car or a motorcycle taking the curve. Here are some pictures of the first two rolls:

The small Altix quickly became one of my favorite cameras. It’s so ergonomic that it feels almost like a part of my body. The Trioplan lens renders beautiful pictures. It’s a great performer if you can prepare for the light conditions with the appropriate film speed. However, the absence of a rangefinder makes it very difficult to use if it comes to wider aperture settings.

Werra Matic

Mon, 12 Apr 2010 23:14:00 +0200

Serial No: 387568
Manufactured: 01/1960 - 12/1961
Shutter: Prestor RVS
Shutter speeds: 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/750 and B
Lens: Carl Zeiss Jena - Tessar 2.8/50
Aperture: 2.8 - 22 in half steps
Lens No: 6119161
Last CLA: 06/2010

My first vintage camera made in DDR by Carl Zeiss Jena. It started something in me which led to lots of spendings on junk cameras and scratchy lenses.

The Werra is a fine piece of engineering from the early ’50s made by German engineers after coming home from Russian hard labour. Being left out from years of lens research and development, the factory gave them a toy-project: design of a compact camera. In the lens factory. The engineers could easily feel that there was no need for them anymore. With the Werra, they wanted to prove that they were the best optical engineers far and close. And they were, indeed. They produced something unimaginably sophisticated. The applied technical solutions were far ahead from the others and it had a really unique and futuristic look. Just compare it with any other camera of that age: the Werra will stand out.

A Werra Matic is one of the most undervalued vintage cameras. It’s small but it contains every possible comfort from the coupled light meter (!) and the coupled rangefinder to the interchangeable lenses (it comes with a great Tessar) and flash sync at all speeds. It feels like a sophisticated and reliable precision clock. In fact, it is more sophisticated than anything else in the 50’s, including the precision clocks.

It’s extremely stable. Shooting is like pressing a microswitch which triggers the clock mechanism. You can hear the fast ticking. Everything is easy to operate. Just one thing to get used to it: there is a ring and a switch button to set the speed, the aperture and to shift. It’s a bit tricky for the first time but turns out to be practical when it comes to shooting in a given light condition.

There is no film wind lever or knob, as you probably realized. The film winding and shutter charging is done by turning the leather-covered ring at the lens base clockwise 60 degrees. It’s easy, handy and fast, you don’t have to take the camera away from your eye.

I have to mention the lens cap which can be used as a lens shade and a protective lens cover as well. Just watch:

The viewfinder is an optical magic. You can see the shutter speed, the aperture, the result of the light metering and the focus setting in an easy-to-overview setup. And it’s bright. It’s damn bright. It’s so bright actually that if it’s too dark outside to see the aperture and speed settings on the rings then you don’t have to look for your torch - just look into the viewfinder. How on earth can it be brighter than the outside environment, I don’t know. But the thing I know is that it was a big help for me to take night shots.

And the rangefinder, ohh my God! The rangefinder is not an ugly pink spot on a blueish image, no. It’s a prism inserted in the center of the view, clearly visible even in really low light. Its usability is simply not in the same dimension as the other rangefinders of the 50’s.

Here are some night shots I took with my Werra Matic:

The light conditions were not easy as you see but the multi-coated Tessar could handle them quite well.

The Werra Matic is one of the tops of the 35mm camera making. It is reliable, easy to use, offers 1/750 speed by a precision clock-like metal leaf shutter, has interchangeable lenses, makes sharp pictures, can handle every possible light condition, is more usable than anything of that age, and it’s small. To be like this, it has to be extremely complex - and it is indeed. The amount of effort the design of such a complex thing needed would have been impossible to put into a mid-priced camera in the profit-oriented West. The Werra Matic is the proud child of the socialist DDR where profit wasn’t an issue.

Werra is my everyday vintage camera. If I need something reliable: I take the Werra. If I have to deal with tricky light conditions: I take the Werra. If I would like to be sure not to miss a shot while wrestling with the knobs and rings and pegs: I take the Werra. If it comes to night shots or interior: guess what, I take the Werra. And it amazes me every time.

The Camera Collection

This is the camera I’m actually using. Review will follow soon.

The long awaited Hapo 66-E review is finally posted. This is my favourite photo of the...

And check out the Zenit 3m review as well.

I’ve just posted the Certo Dollina II review here. Enjoy.

For you guys who still follow this blog I would like you to know that the Kiwi Project is almost...

Okay guys, haven’t been here lately because this blog is still not maintained but I’m...

Moving out

Hello. Awesome site. :) I just wanted to ask you something about my Yashica D, the shutter speed knob won't turn. :( Do you know anything that can help me fix it? Thank you.

I have a Altix camera, version I, that was produced from 1938. What is the price for it on the market? Thorulf Arwidson thorulf.arwidson@gmail.com

Hy Can you give me some info about an Eho camera? I have one and this the only I have about it, there is no other inscription on it. Thank you Dana ursulescudn@gmail.com

Hello, I have just read with amazement your discrition of the Werra camera. I have just inherited one and am facinated by it, and would love to use it .One question is how do you insert and remove the film ? I have pondered but cant see how its done. Home you can help. Best Regards

Ihagee Exa

Yashica Electro 35 GSN

FED-2

IHAGEE EXA Ia

Kodak Retina IIa

Altix IV

Werra Matic

I have a Altix camera, version I, that was produced from 1938. What is the price for it on the market?

Thorulf Arwidson

thorulf.arwidson@gmail.com

Hy

Can you give me some info about an Eho camera? I have one and this the only I have about it, there is no other inscription on it.

Thank you
Dana
ursulescudn@gmail.com

Hello, I have just read with amazement your discrition of the Werra camera. I have just inherited one and am facinated by it, and would love to use it .One question is how do you insert and remove the film ? I have pondered but cant see how its done. Home you can help.
Best Regards